Best Apéritif Wine—2005 Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut—$33.00—The most traditional of the Iron Horse Sparklings. A classy blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, aged an average of four years on the yeast in the bottle. Wonderfully rich and creamy, it sends all kinds of memory bells that say "champagne", though the fruit is unmistakably Green Valley of Russian River Valley. It is vintage quality in every sense of the word.